Guarda - April 14

Hi from Guarda

This is the cathedral. Cold and empty. I couldnt wait to get out of there.

I arrived to find my hostel locked up til 6pm. I got here at 1pm. I will fill you in on my methods of travel: When I arrive at a town, I usually check in to the hostel and unpack a few things. Then I find the tourist information office - get a map, see if there are guided tours, get a bus timetable to the next destination, and a map of historical sites.

The dinner I had last night was fantastic. Get a load of this - in a saucepan was added four different kinds of Chorizo sausage, heaps of peas, onions, garlic and other ingredients. My host also made the bread to swill up the remains. When the stew is cooked, he added four eggs to the mixture and let the pot poach the eggs. He even served mine with the egg on top. Then you swirl the egg all over the stew. I swear it was the nicest tasting thing I have had in Portugal. I bought red wine and desert. We talked for hours and hours. Again, I am the first Australian a Portuguese person had met.

Just a note about the political system here. The Portuguese people are stuck between a rock and a hard place. My host told me about three major political figures who have been completely exposed as corrupt. They were exposed many times before all three were re-elected. One woman comes back to Portugal on election day and then leaves the country to live elsewhere. I was amazed by all of this. I am not sure how this can happen, but Portugal is notorious for it´s politics. Quite sad really. It is this and other things that can truly make an Australian feel like he lives in the best country in the world, and I know when this tour is finished I will be ready to come home.

Portugal's national music is Fado which is interpreted as "yearning, sadness and searching for a life you can never have". I see this in many places. It is because of my host last night and others I have spoken to that I see the hidden sadness of Portugal.

The popular description of Guarda is "cold, rich, strong and ugly". Set on imposing heights, it was founded in 1197 to guard young Portugal against both Moors and Spanish (hence the name).

Places i will visit include the Cathedral and Castle (sound familiar?). There is also a blacksmiths tower here which looks really interesting. But the thing i want to see the most is the Old City which was inhabited by a Jewish community (and still is today).

Hope you are all well and thanks for the posts you are sending. It makes my day.

Love Tony